Day 19: June 26, Cape Lookout to Silverton, OR

This is a truly beautiful place. We woke up this morning and decided to take our coffee and walk along the beach. Randi sat on a big log while Zev and I took a long walk. We looked for sand dollars and crabs and other assorted sea life. Zev picked up handfuls of sand dollars. He saved some kind of fish from impending doom by taking the small beast out of a tidal pool and throwing him back into the ocean. It was a very pleasurable walk. Soon we were joined by Josh and the three of us walked back to Randi. We sat for a while then Randi and I decided to head back to the campground for breakfast. The kids said they’d be right behind us. Well Randi and I had some cereal, relaxed a bit, and started packing up the van… still no children, aahhh. I guess we should check on them, though, so I head back to the beach. There they are, in their pajamas, playing in the sand and water, having the time of their lives. We realize its getting late, though, around noon, and we really should move on. Our plan is to head to Randi’s uncle’s house today, about an hour inland, to Silverton, OR. We’ve had a wonderfully relaxing morning, though.. the Oregon coast is just beautiful.
We leave Cape Lookout and continue south a bit on the Three Capes Scenic Drive. We arrive in Pacific City where we’ve read about a bakery called Grateful Bread. It sounds really good so we look for it and make a stop. Turns out its more of a restaurant than a little café, but the menu looks good so we sit. After some stuffed focacia and coffee we get back on the road and start heading inland toward Salem. It’s a two lane rolling road that takes us in and ultimately we reach Salem. Silverton is just 12 miles east of Salem, past large and small farming operations. The area looks to be primarily tree, fruit, and sod agriculture. We arrive in Silverton and quickly find Uncle Mark and Aunt Aylene's house. It’s nice to visit family and take a break from the campgrounds. We get a quick tour of Silverton and of Mark and Aylene's new house. It’s a quaint town of just over 9,000. We return home where we relax before a wonderful salmon and roasted vegetable dinner. Zev’s allergies really pick up here and we find out that this area is not a great place for the allergic-enabled. We get a chance to shower and do some laundry, and then its off to sleep in real beds.
It’s been 19 nights in the Westy up to now. I have to say it’s been very comfortable. The best thing about being in a house, though, is the chance to spread out a bit. We plan to stay here for another night and perhaps check out the nearby Silver Falls, then we’ll be back on the road.

Day 18: June 25, Pacific Beach, WA to Cape Lookout, OR

We stay huddled in bed a little longer this morning. Its cozy. Our view out of the back of the Westy is of the dunes, beach, and Pacific Ocean. We’re not terribly fond of the campground, but you can’t beat this site. Today our plan is to get somewhere into northern Oregon, perhaps with stops in Astoria, Cannon Beach, and Tilamook. We reload the van (when I say we I mean Randi and I. The kids usually play, lie around, or sometimes watch a DVD) and get going. The route today often skirts the coast or heads inland through old logging or oyster fishing villages. We are anxious to get to Oregon and so make a straight shot, stopping just once, for gas and food.
Breaching a hill I can see the wide, slow moving Columbia River through the trees. I announce to Josh and Zev that Oregon is just ahead. We ride along the Columbia for a short while and then turn onto the long bridge into Astoria, OR. I remember visiting Astoria before and it’s a pleasant town. But Randi and I decide to bypass it this time and keep going. Our first stop is Seaside. Randi and I once stayed at a bed and breakfast here. Seaside is not how I remember it, however. It appears to mainly be a touristy beach resort. We stop though, because the kids need a break. They get some salt water taffy and play some games in an arcade. We’re off, though, in less than an hour. Randi has selected a campground for tonight, Cape Lookout State Park, and it’s still a ways off. We also want to make a few more stops.
Just a few more miles and we reach Cannon Beach and the famous Haystack Rock. Haystack Rock is the third largest sea monolith in the world. The community at Cannon Beach is also a lot nicer than Seaside. We take a long walk along the beach and then circle back into town. The kids find a bead shop and have taken an interest in making their own necklaces. Soon, however, we return to the coastal highway and continue further south. It’s a pretty drive but it’s getting late and we want to make sure we have time to make dinner at our campground. Before we get there, though, we stop in Tilamook at the Tilamook Cheese factory. Here you can view the factory in process and we watched as workers monitored and packaged cheese. Sounds too good to be true? Well we had a really good time here. We joked about the cheese and where it comes from (since you get milk by milking a cow can you get cheese by cheesing a cow? I guess you had to be there.) The best part is they hand out free cheese! We got back in line several times. Yum, yum. The boys and Randi also had to try some Tilamook ice cream. That was pretty darn good too.

Well as much fun as a cheese factory is, it was time to head south and west just a few miles further to Cape Lookout State Park. It was a wonderful winding road to the campground which is located right on the coast. We immediately liked what we saw and picked out a good campsite. It was pretty late so Randi and I got to making dinner… spaghetti with sautéed onions, garlic, and spinach in olive oil… while Zev secured some firewood. Josh was working on his necklaces, which he plans on selling to unsuspecting fellow campers. We enjoy our dinner and a campfire, though the necklaces didn’t sell too well. Later Randi and I head to the beach to watch the sunset. Josh and Zev stay back and help ready the van for bed. They did a great job. This campground is in a really beautiful area and it would be well worth returning.

Day 17: June 24, Olympic National Park to Pacific Beach, WA

We feel like we need to pick up the pace a bit if we are going to make it back to Flagstaff this summer. We’ve spent some extra time in Washington, both in the Cascades and on the peninsula, that we hadn’t planned on. Needless to say we would like to pick up some miles today. I’ve really felt that we’ve had to pick and choose what we will see and do and what we will have to put off until next time. I’d like to do it all, but there’s just not enough time. Today our goal is to get a taste of the rain forest region of Olympic National Park and a taste of the rocky seashore.
Our first stop is the Hoh Rainforest. It takes us well over an hour to get there as we wind around lakes, over rivers, and through dense forest. As we travel the road into the Hoh, the trees seem to be larger, the greens greener, and long strands of “furry” moss cling to everything. It’s a pretty drive into the rainforest area. Once there, we stop at the visitor center where Josh turns in his junior ranger paperwork. The ranger sits down with him and goes over each task he needed to accomplish. It took about 15 minutes and I think Josh really enjoyed it. Then the ranger publicly announced that Josh had fulfilled the requirements of a junior ranger and she had him recite an oath. I think he should have it memorized by now. From the visitor center we decided to take two hike that would introduce us to the rainforest. Both were spectacular. We had learned in the visitor center how trees often begin their existence by growing on top of a fallen, decomposing log. Because of this you will often see several mature trees growing in a line. Once the “nurse tree” fully decomposes it leaves a large gap in the root area of the newer trees. Anyway, we found it interesting and we spent our hike looking for examples of the phenomenon. The trees in this area grow larger and faster than the same species of tree in other areas. It’s really a cool place.
With our hikes completed it was time to move on. Back to the main road we headed south. We would soon be seeing Ruby Beach and the Pacific Ocean. Ruby Beach is part of the Olympic National Park. It’s a great rocky beach with lots of driftwood and logs. Pine trees grow right up to the water, practically. This area is one notorious for sea stacks. Those are the large monolith type formations out in the sea that are created when the land connecting them to the shore is eroded away. The kids had a great time playing in the water, hunting for animals, and climbing on rocks. We ate our lunch on the beach there and took a little walk along the shore line. Soon, though, we needed to head further south and reach one of several possible campgrounds along the beach on the southern Washington coast. We’ll be leaving Olympic NP and I’m a bit sad about that. I really enjoyed the area and hope to get back and see much more of it another time.
Back on highway 101, a two-lane highway that wraps around the peninsula and ultimately down the coast, we head south. Looking at the map we see we have several options in terms of coastal campgrounds. It’s difficult to know which one to pick. We consult one of our guidebooks which indicates that Pacific Beach State Park is a 10 (whatever that means) and that it’s the only coastal campground with a direct view of the beach. That sounds good to me so we head for campground. It seems like a long drive and it is a little out of our way, but we finally reach the beach. The campground is right on the beach and we get a good site with beach access. It’s a bit windy here though and just about every other camper is an RV. Apparently this place is notorious for kite flying because that’s what everyone is doing. It’s an adjustment for us since we’ve been primarily in the woods and along rivers. Our plans for the next several days though calls for coastal camping. The kids play on the beach, we enjoy a beer and some cheese & crackers (the kids just have the cheese & crackers) and we settle in for the evening. A little Jiffy Pop before bed and its off to sleep.

Day 16: June 23, Olympic National Park (Victoria, Vancouver Island, BC)

Yesterday we discovered that the ferry leaves for Victoria at 8:20 am and 12:45. We have to pick up our passports first which our friend Krista kindly sent to us in Port Angeles. Knowing that there is no way we can catch an 8:20 ferry, we feel like we have some time this morning. The kids are anxious to get up and play with the kids in the next campsite. To give Josh and Zev something to do while they wait for the other kids to wake up, I ask them to build a fire. Randi and I begin to make breakfast… it’s eggs and potatoes this morning! The neighbor kids get up and immediately all are playing soccer, probably waking up other campers. The breakfast is awesome and we casually drink out coffee. Soon we realize it’s getting pretty late and we need to get moving. It’s difficult to separate Josh and Zev from their new friends, but we promise to try and see them again later in the trip.
We make our stop at the post office in Port Angeles, hoping that our passports made it. They did! Yeah! Off to the ferry dock to get our tickets and soon we’re on the ferry to Victoria. It takes 90 minutes to cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca and into Victoria. The trip across is pleasant, the kids have a good time going out onto the deck. Soon, the city appears and we enter the inner harbor. Sea planes are taking off as the elegant Empress Hotel and the Parliament building come into view. Victoria immediately appears to be a beautiful city.
We disembark and have to decide what to do. Our return ferry is at 7:30 so we don’t have tons of time. We mainly walk around town. We check out some shops, get a coffee, have some ice cream. It’s a lot of walking, but no one seems to mind too much. We go over to the Royal B.C. Museum but it closes in an hour and so we decide to try something else. The museum is supposed to be excellent but we just don’t have enough time in Victoria. We do manage to find a bug zoo that stays open a little later so we take that in. Its surprisingly interesting and of course the kids really enjoy it. We walk back down to the waterfront then decide its time to get something to eat before having to get back to the ferry. We have a nice dinner at a downtown restaurant, but it takes a little longer than we thought. We rush Zev through his ice cream and walk swiftly to the ferry dock. We made it in plenty of time, but it was exciting to imagine ourselves jumping from the dock to the deck as the ferry pulled out of Victoria. It was the last ferry of the day afterall.
We’re all pretty bushed as we ride the ferry back to Port Angeles, WA. The kids still find the energy to go out on the deck. The sun sets as we pull in to port. We’re walking to the van and Zev says, “that’s the best day we’ve had yet.” I can’t tell you how many times he’s said that this trip. It’s exciting to know the boys are having a great time. Its getting dark as we head down the road to another Olympic National Park Campground. We find it, pop the top, and go to bed. It really was one of the best days we’ve had. I’m guessing there’s still a few more in store for us.

Day 15: June 22, Port Townsend to Olympic National Park

The Olympic Peninsula is a beautiful place with mountains in the interior and rivers flowing the waters that surround the peninsula. Today our plan is to head to Olympic National Park. The park is 98% wilderness area which means there are no roads crisscrossing it, like you find in some other national parks. There are several ways to enter the park and we are heading to Port Angeles today, one entry area.
The kids woke up late and immediately went to find our camping neighbors to play with. Zev ended up going down to the beach with his friend to do some exploring. Randi and I started packing up the van. It was getting late in the morning and Zev still hadn’t returned so we drove down closer to the beach and sent Josh to go get him. When after many minutes both boys didn’t return Randi started walking down the hill through the woods to the beach. The kids were walking back up but they had been playing in the tide pools, catching fish, crabs, and picking up shells. I guess it was too much fun to leave.
Once convinced it was time to go, we headed toward the Port Angeles entry to Olympic National Park. It was a very long drive, maybe 45 miles. Once we entered the park we headed up the 17 mile park road to Hurricane Ridge. Its one of the more popular areas in this park. It took the Westy a while to climb those 17 miles, and we could get a glimpse every now and then of the incredible views that awaited us. At the top we were immediately rewarded with a spectacular view of the snow and glacier covered Olympic Mountains. We found a parking spot that happened to be right next to another VW Vanagon and made our way to the Visitor Center. Josh signed up for the junior ranger program and we started a short hike to Sunrise Point. The trail was snow covered but the boys enjoyed the hike. We saw a black tail deer mama and her youngins. The flowers were just blooming and were spectacular. At the top of the trail was a vista over the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Vancouver Island in Canada. Josh and Zev slid down the snow covered hillside and we returned to the parking area. We noticed that a ranger led walk had just started so Josh and I joined in, Zev and Randi went to the gift shop.
The ranger led walk was pleasant. He talked about the ecology of this sub-alpine area and the competition and cooperation of the flora and fauna. Josh answered every question this guy threw out, whether it was about ravens or the flowers or the mountains. He was pretty impressive. About an hour later the walk was over and Josh and I returned to the van where Randi and Zev had been waiting, having some lunch.
We piled in and I turned the key to start the Westy and… nothing. My first thought was catastrophe. Here we are at the top of some mountain in the middle of a National Park and there’s something really wrong with the van. After panicking a little and checking out some simple possibilities and decided to jump start the engine. We have an auxiliary battery for running the radio and lights and things when we’re camping, so I just took the jumper cables and jumped myself. The van started right up. I figured that it would recharge on the way down out of the park. We stopped by the waterfront once back in town to check out the ferry schedule. I got back in the van, turned the key and… nothing. Ugggh. I jumped it again.
We stopped at a grocery store but I left the engine running while Randi got some food. We went to a campground, everyone’s getting a little testy at this point, and found a campsite. I parked the Westy at our site, turned off the engine and then tried to restart… nothing. It was getting late so while Randi was starting dinner and ran around the van trying to figure out how a battery can just die like that. I don’t know what made me think of it, or why I didn’t think of it sooner, but we have a battery cutoff switch next to the passenger seat. I jumped up and checked on that switch and sure enough it had been turned. Now I don’t know who might have turned that switch, but I was sure glad to have figured out what was going on.
Ok, so enough with the mechanics. We’re at our campsite in Olympic National Park and the kids find two other kids to play with. They played soccer all evening long. A little later I talk to the parents and find out they live in Humboldt County, California. They’re a nice family and we end up sharing a campfire that night. The kids are good match in terms of energy and interests and they had a great time. We exchange phone numbers and email and may see them again when we pass through their area in another week or so. It’s a late night so we settle down in our beds. Tomorrow we plan to catch a ferry to Vancouver Island.

Day 14: June 21, Bainbridge Island to Port Townsend, WA

There was no hurry this morning. We hadn’t yet decided whether we were staying or moving on, but one thing we need to accomplish is finding a laundromat before this day is over. I got up and went for a run. I started out and decided to try and make a loop. It was a nice hilly run and I got to see quite a bit of the island. Many of the houses on Bainbridge Island remind me of New England. When I started out I wasn’t sure if the loop was going to work out, but it worked out just fine… a great run. Later, while the kids played, Randi and I had our coffee down by the beach… another very relaxing moment. Zev came running up with a huge dead crab and a large clam (not a relaxing moment). A bald eagle flew over head and took cover in a tall fir (relaxing moment). We decided to go ahead and move on to Port Townsend today, stopping by some of the small towns along the way.
On the road again. Today would be little driving. We went over the bridge on the north side of the island over Hood Canal and onto Kitsap Peninsula. Northward. We came to the town of Poulsbo and a sign indicating historic downtown, next left. I remembered reading about Poulsbo in one of the travel books we have. It is a historically Norwegian town on the waterfront. Deciding to check it out we make the left and head toward water. We were pleasantly surprised as we drove the few blocks downtown, looking for a parking space. It’s a quaint village with a definite Scandinavian feel. We find a place to park and take a look around. The Viking theme is popular here. We browse through book stores and little shops. We happen upon a bakery and go in. The place smells delicious. The kids decide on a couple of huge doughnuts and I pick out a fig filled bearclaw. We get some cinnamon bread for tomorrow’s breakfast and continue on our stroll.
Back to the Westy and back on the road. Our aim today is to go to Port Townsend, an old Victorian fishing village. On the map we see that Port Gamble is not far out of our way and think about stopping there. I remember reading something about Port Gamble but can’t remember what. As we arrive we see signs for event parking and then notice the large numbers of people dressed in Civil War era clothing. Turns out there was some kind of festival going on with re-enactments from the period. We had decided first not to stay but finagled our way into some sweet parking on the main square so got out and looked around. Port Gamble seems like a Williamsburg, Virginia kind of place. The whole town is on the Historical Register. We watched an entertaining demo of re-enactors signing up recruits for the Civil War, then headed back to the van and on to Port Townsend.
We knew Port Townsend was going to be cool when arriving we saw how many other VW Vanagon Westfalias were around. It’s a much larger town than any of the others we had stopped at today. It also seems to attract lots of tourists so we decided to look for a campground first. We first went to one on the edge of town, but it was already full. So we went downtown to look around and figure out where we would camp for the night. Port Townsend is a great place on the water’s edge. It now caters to tourists but I think it was a fishing village and played some role in the timber industry. There’s still a pretty big paper mill on the edge of town. There’s a café and an independent book store on every block. Washingtonians do like their coffee. We had a nice time checking out the shops, but remember that laundry I mentioned? We needed to find a Laundromat and campground.
We happened to notice a Laundromat as we came into town so dropped Randi off with our tons of laundry. The boys and I went to find a campground in the forest behind town. Both missions were successful. The state campground is pleasant and Randi did a great job on the clothes. Proud of our accomplishments but late in the day, we decided to head downtown once more time for some pizza. We sat down at Waterfront Pizza where everything is organic and handmade and munched on some great pizza and local beer (the kids didn’t have the beer). One last stop afterward for ice cream then it was back to the campsite. The kids found some others to play with there for an hour or so. They seem to really miss playing with other kids. Then it was off to sleep.

Day 13: June 20, Leavenworth to Seattle to Bainbridge Island, WA

We got a pretty quick start this morning. I think we were all kind of excited to get to Seattle, though we really enjoyed the last few days here on the eastern slope of the Cascades. Just before we were ready to leave, our old friend with the VW Eurovan drove by, stopped briefly, and gave us a little honk before driving off. The kids said they wanted to go down to say “good-bye” to the river before we left. Soon, Josh came back up and asked me to take a picture of he and Zev at the river side. They both seem very attached to this place. I guess I am too.

Well it was time to move on. We drove back out to the main road, route 2, and headed west. The road winds through the Cascade Mountains via Stevens Pass. It was another beautiful drive in the Westy. Waterfalls could be seen everywhere as melting snow made its way down the mountainside. Our van moved slow and steady… there’s a nice rhythm to it. On the other side of the Cascades we made our way through small towns, stopping once to buy some freshly picked cherries. The landscape changed a bit as we neared more urban development. Not soon after we made our way a little south and west and we could see Seattle in the distance. Of course, the first thing we looked for was the Space Needle. Approaching from high on a hill Seattle already looked like a very pretty city… built on a hill along Puget Sound. Without previously planning, we made our way to the city center. My goal was to first get us to the famed Pike’s Place Market, down by the waterfront. It took a while, first to figure out how to get there and, then, to find parking. But here we were, in Seattle. I almost can’t believe we’re here. The van has traveled well over 2000 miles at this point.

We managed to find Pike’s Place Market and we began to walk around the various craft and food stalls. Zev was itching to buy a necklace for some reason. The place was buzzing. I guess that’s what happens when you arrive in Seattle on a Friday. We worked our way around the market place and came to Pike’s Place Fish Company. This is the notorious fish market where the workers put on a little show for their customers, throwing the fish to one another, calling out the orders, etc. When they’re not busy, the pose with the large fish for pictures. Josh and Zev really liked watching the action and had to be urged to move on. We got a picture of Josh holding a huge salmon here. We walked around quite a bit. Josh got some got some cocktail shrimp at one of the seafood vendors. There were street performers and musicians to keep us entertained as we passed the original Starbucks. We bought our coffee though at Tully’s, another regional coffee peddler.

We next walked several blocks to get over to the Space Needle. Once there we realized that they charge quite a bit for the elevator ride to the top, but how could we not do it? We paid the fare and went up for a 360 degree view of Seattle. You could see Mt. Ranier off in one direction, the Cascades in another, and the mountains of the Olympic Peninsula in yet another direction. It was a beautiful view. I don’t know how it happened , but somewhere on the top of the Space Needle Randi and I decided to move on. We were originally going to spend a lot more time in Seattle, but it just didn’t feel right. I’m not sure if it was the crowds of people, or the urban landscape, but I think that the city just didn’t quite fit in with this trip. Still I really like Seattle and hope to get back soon to explore more of the city.

Without much prior knowledge we decided to hit the state owned ferry and sail over to Bremerton… or maybe Bainbridge Island. We weren’t sure which, but we know both are in the direction of the Olympic Peninsula. We followed some downtown signs that read “To The Ferries” and made our way to the docks… along with many other Seattle-ites. Not knowing exactly what we were doing we got to the toll booth where I was asked where I was going. I hesitated and then said Bainbridge Island. She said, “OK, $21.50”. That seemed cheap to me for a ferry ride with my van and family of four, but I paid and then followed the lot attendant directions that placed me in a line with what seemed like several hundred other cars. Other people were getting out of their cars and going into the terminal so I surmised we weren’t leaving anytime soon, but I wasn’t sure how things worked. I found a lot attendant who didn’t seem to understand my question at first. I guess “what do I do” is a little vague. Anyway she said I was on the 6:20 ferry and that I should expect that a Friday is going to mean waiting a little. It was around 5:00 when I asked her what was going on.

So we waited. After a while, the ferry arrived right on time. Others started their car engines so I did the same. Soon we were being waved onto the ferry. It was all very well coordinated and everyone was quite polite. It was a surreal experience though, driving onto a big boat. We got placed in an empty lane so were parked at the front of the ship. Again, not knowing what to do we followed the other passengers. Some stayed in their cars, but many got out and that’s what we did. We went up to the passenger area and took in the sights. It was a lot of fun and less the half the cost of the elevator ride to the top of the Space Needle. About 35 minutes later the boat arrived on Bainbridge Island. I wondered what would happen if the van didn’t start when it was time to disembark. Lucky for me I never found out. The van started right up, as always, and off we went onto the island.

After a quick stop in town for some water we made our way a little north, to the only campground on the island. The campground was on a developed beach, which had a playground and some picnic tables. The kids ran right off to the playground. Later we played some Frisbee and, of course, hacky-sac. We walked down to the beach and looked out over the sound (I think it was the sound, maybe it’s a bay. What’s the difference anyway.) It was getting late so we had a quick dinner in the Westy and were soon nodding off to sleep. We have no plans for tomorrow so we’ll see how we feel in the morning. One thing is certain though, this campground has showers!

Day 12: June 19, Leavenworth, WA

We got a nice slow start this morning at this beautiful spot in the Wanatchee National Forest outside Leavenworth. The kids headed back down to the river. Randi and I sipped coffee and ate some cereal. As we were getting ready for the day, an older man stopped by our campsite. He has a VW Eurovan and talked to Randi and I for a while about his travels. He and his wife have backpacked much of the west and have had VW vans for many years. He was a nice old guy and it was interesting to talk to him. Later, we got the kids packed up and we drove into town to check things out before our rafting trip, which begins at 1 pm. Leavenworth really is a pleasant place. Lots of little shops and cafes. This week happens to be the Leavenworth International Accordion Festival so we really hit it right. We stopped by the town square to listen to some accordion jams, then spent the majority of our time walking around the quaint village.
Before we knew it, it was time to meet our group for the rafting trip. We got to their parking area and were guided to the area for getting our wetsuits and booties. It was all great fun, squeezing into our wetsuits, getting our paddles… anticipation growing. On with the PFDs and then we waited as the rest of the rafters got ready. Soon we were on an old yellow school bus heading to the put in spot. Once there the group of 28 was divided into boats of 6 and 8 with one river guide. Ours was a boat of 6 with a guide name Steven. Of course, the kids positioned themselves right up front with Randi and I behind them. The other two rafters were behind us. Steven sat in the rear. Soon enough we were off and floating down the Wanatchee river for a 16 mile trip through some class III rapids, enough excitement for the kids.

It was a warm day in the sun, but the air was cool and we would soon realize that when your wet, its kind of cold. Steven gave some initial instructions then we hit our first rapids. The kids got swamped and they seemed to love every minute of it. Steven did a great job of making sure they got the worst (or best, depending how you look at it) of the rapids, and he definitely got us adults plenty wet as well. It was a great time. Both kids said that they have never had so much fun in their lives. At one point they got pretty cold and Steven gave them each a jacket and hat. The boys enjoyed talking with him and asking lots of questions. After a few hours of floating quickly and surviving lots of white water, we reached the take out spot. It was on the edge of an apple orchard. The outfitting company had a great barbecue set up and the kids had hamburgers (we had veggie burgers). There were hammocks and beach-type games, a fire for s’mores… it was very relaxing. Next we were rounded up for the bus trip back to Leavenworth.

Once back in town we decided to head for a “beer garden” before returning to the campsite. After a drink and a lot of time spent updating the blog, we headed back into the forest. Everyone was pretty tired after today. It was another Chris Farley movie tonight and then quickly off to bed. It was a great day… I’m sure there will be many more to come as well.

Hi From Leavenworth, Washington

Day 11: Spokane to Leavenworth, WA

I went for a run this morning. It was the first time since starting the road trip. The conditions were just right. I had a nice, long flat trail along the river, and a shower available immediately after. I hope to get more running in during the trip since I entered a summer racing series in Flagstaff. I ran two of the races before we left but I have a few more when I get back. Its hard to fit it in on the road, though.

Anyway, we had a pancake breakfast this morning. We decided it was definitely time for a whitewater rafting trip since we would be entering the Cascade Range today. We made some arrangements with Osprey Outfitters in Leavenworth, WA this morning. We had already revised our itinerary to stop in or around Wenatchee, on the Columbia River, but decided to go an extra 20 miles or so to Leavenworth. Leavenworth is a small town which apparently reinvented itself a few years back. The town decided to go Bavarian and so now it attracts a million visitors a year.

After packing up the Westy it was back on the road. Our journey took us over the relatively flat, expansive farming region of eastern Washington. I’ve never quite seen so much farmland. We drove around 120 miles of nothing but large scale wheat farms. Soon we could see the Cascade Range in the distance. The road dropped down off the high flat plateau and into the Columbia River valley. The Columbia River is very wide at this point. The kids asked if it was a lake. As we continued we could see orchard after orchard. First we noticed nearly ripe cherries, then later the apple orchards. Turns out the first major community, Wenatchee , is home to the Washington apple industry. We noticed the official Washington Apple Visitor Center as we entered Wanatchee and decided to stop in. We were greeted with apple juice, apple slices, and a short video about the apple industry. It was fun, quirky, and the kids really liked it. Back in the van it was off to Leavenworth and to find a campsite for the night. We started a climb into the mountains and soon entered the town. It seems crazy but Leavenworth really does feel like a Bavarian hamlet. All of the buildings have that European alpine feel. Even the banks and the fast food joints are designed that way.

We decided to pass through town, find our campsite and return after we got set up. We followed a sign indicating camping down a narrow two lane road that seemed to go on and on. Soon the road entered National Forest land. We kept going. Finally, we found a campground in the area. We really lucked out. The campsite is incredible. The tall pine trees are bordered by looming, craggy peaks. Alongside our site runs a fast moving river. There’s a safe spot for the kids to play in the water. Its perfect. As we’re setting up it becomes clear that we just want to stay at the campsite. We’ll have to get into town tomorrow. The kids play in the river, Randi and I have a beer and join them later. The place is peaceful, relaxing. Later that evening, the kids and I go collect some wood for a fire. We find another silver VW Vanagon Westfalia camping in the same campground. We return, make some dinner, and top of the day with some s’mores. We retire to the van and watch a movie on our portable DVD player. Chris Farley has become our patron saint of travel and we’ve watched a few of his movies on this trip. Then its off to sleep, dreaming of cool rapids and warm sunshine.

Day 10: June 17, Missoula to Spokane, WA

It was a beautiful morning at our campsite outside Missoula. We made some eggs, had some coffee, and took it a little slow this morning. Once on the road I almost immediately saw another billboard for the Testicle Festival. This time I would not be denied – I was going to get a picture. The sign was on the other side of the highway, though, and the photo just came out too small for my liking. Determined, I made a u-turn across the median, parked on the other side of the highway, and walked as close as I could. The elusive photo is posted here for your enjoyment.

Once back on the highway we were quickly in the town of Missoula. We walked around the town quite a bit, went into a few stores, and picked up a replacement hacky-sac. I guess the kids kicked the stuffing out of the last one. We then found a little coffee shop that had wi-fi and got caught up on our blog. Randi did a bit of work since the end of the fiscal year for many of our clients is coming up. It was quite a few hours in Missoula before we hit the highway for our destination for the day. On the way out of town, however, we recalled that we wanted to check out the smoke jumper visitor center. A quick decision and we were back off the highway, near the Missoula airport, going on a tour of the smoke jumper training center. It was pretty interesting. These are the folks who parachute into hard to access forested areas to fight wildfires. After the brief tour I mentioned to Randi that one of the other guests on the tour looked like a teacher I know back in Flagstaff. In the small parking lot I happened to notice that one of the cars was from Flagstaff. I stopped the van and ran back in to say “hello”. We had a nice little conversation there in front of the smoke jumper visitor’s center – two families from Flagstaff. But it was not after 4 PM and we still had to make it to Spokane so off we went.

It was a nice winding road along a river. Seems like all roads out here travel along rivers. Soon we were in a new state, Idaho, and then it one of its cities, Coeur d’Alene. Coeur d’Alene seems like a really nice town. It sits right on a beautiful lake, surrounded by small mountains. We went downtown, but it was getting late. We needed to move on. We stopped at a supermarket and then it was back on the highway. By this time tempers were getting a little short. The kids seemed liked they’ve had enough of traveling, and I had enough of their silliness. We managed to roll into Spokane just in time. After finding Riverside State Park, we took the last available campsite. Best of all, this campground has showers. Looking forward to that tomorrow morning.

Update from Missoula

Just read the comments from you all... We need to announce that Zev has taken a shower. I repeat, Zev has taken a shower.

Day 9: June 16, Yellowstone to Missoula, MT

Today we tried to get going early since we had a pretty long journey ahead. Yellowstone to Missoula is about the longest drive yet. After getting our stuff packed up we headed around the loop to the west entrance of the park. The drive within the park was 45 miles alone. On the way out we’re pretty sure we saw a couple of wolves chasing each other down by the river. We got some pictures and the animals seem too big to be coyotes. Josh completed the last of his junior ranger requirements in the car so we stopped at a visitor’s center where a friendly ranger made a big deal, presenting him with a patch. The ranger brought Josh to the center of the lobby and announced to the other visitors that Josh had fulfilled the requirements of a junior ranger. Some of the other tourists applauded.

We hopped back in the Westy and made our way to the park exit. Along the way we saw a lot more buffalo and a few elk. In the last few miles within the park we got a great view of a bald eagle circling overhead. Once out of the park we were soon entering a new state, Montana. We took route 191 north through some of the most beautiful scenery along the Gallatin River. That stretch went pretty quickly as we winded our way between mountains and back and forth over the river. Soon enough we were on interstate 90 heading west. The highway was quite a contrast to the places we had just been. It traversed through wide open ranchland. We looked at the map and still had just a tad less than 200 miles to go. We decided then that we would stop in Butte, MT and check it out. It was quite a haul in our little van, but we finally made it to Butte. I was expecting it to be similar to Flagstaff but I have to say that we were all disappointed. We couldn’t find a little café or restaurant to take a break in. We drove around a few of the city blocks and to the “historic downtown”. Maybe we missed it somehow, but we can now cross Butte off our list of interesting places.

After a fill up and a short break at a gas station, we moseyed on toward Missoula. The drive quickly improved as we found ourselves once again entering valleys, along rivers, and in between forested mountains. As we neared Missoula I saw a billboard advertising a local event, the Testicle Festival. I wanted to get a picture but noticed the billboard too late and passed it without being able to stop. I think it had something to do with castrating cattle (this is ranch country after all). We found a little state park just outside Missoula, Beavertail State Park. Deciding that this would be our stop for the night we pulled in to a little idyllic campground with few other campers. We parked right up against a river and set up camp. The weather is warmer at this lower elevation and the area is just right. After a good dinner, a beer, and some evening family games, we hit the sack for what we hope is a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow we’ll check out the town of Missoula before heading on to Spokane.

Day 8: June 15, Yellowstone NP

Happy Father’s Day. What a way to spend Father’s Day! We all rolled out of bed at our own paces. Some routines to our morning are starting to take shape… make the coffee, reorganize the van, look at our plans for the day, and so on. Being Father’s Day today I got a couple of cards from the boys, and Josh managed to buy me a bag of Gummi Bears when I wasn’t looking. We said good-bye to our campground neighbors since they were heading home today. We were ready to take off to see the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. But first, it was a stop at the Mud Volcano area. This was an amazing thermal area dominated by such sites as the Dragon’s Caldron. The area smelled of sulphur, as most of the thermal areas do. What sets this area apart, though, is that the gases escaping from deep in the earth are released through mud and muddy water. The pools are bubbling and steaming. One of the thermal sites releases its steam from within a cavern so the water swashes in and out, steam rising out from the cave, accompanied by a low grumble.

From the Mud Volcano we crossed open Hayden Valley and winded our way to the southern rim of Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This area totally surprised me. From the edge we looked down into a deep canyon with steep yellow walls. At the bottom of the canyon is Yellowstone River and at the western edge was a tremendous waterfall – it supposedly is larger than Niagra Falls. After a short hike to additional views of the falls, we got back in the Westy and headed to the Canyon Visitor Center. The Visitor Center was a brand spankin new one which told the history of the area. We watched a short movie called Yellowstone: Fire and Water. The movie was great, we were having a great time, but I think we’re all kind of tired. Instead of doing anymore hiking we decided to go see about renting some row boats on Yellowstone Lake.
When we got to the Marina it turns out that the row boats weren’t put out for the season yet. We could rent a motor boat or take a ride on a small cruiser with other tourists. After some brief discussion we opted to rent the motor boat for an hour. The kids had a blast, it really was a lot of fun. We powered out into the lake, past the magnificent Yellowstone Inn and along the coastline. The winds picked up and the water got a little choppy. Josh and Zev enjoyed taking the helm, but it’s Zev who really likes the speed. After an hour of motoring around we headed back to the marina. The kids’ faces said it all. It really was a good time.

We decided next to check out the Yellowstone Inn. It’s a massive place painted entirely yellow, not an obnoxious yellow though. The lobby is an open space with comfy wicker furniture and large picture windows looking out to the lake. Families sit around the great room playing cards, looking out the windows, or playing games. We decided to play some cards and order some drinks. Its about as relaxing as it gets. I’m sipping my daiquiri, Randi’s got her bloody mary, Zev has a hot cocoa, and Josh got a Pepsi. After a couple of card games it was time to head back to camp to cook some grub. As we head back we notice a few cars pulled over to the side. Its important to notice these things because pulled over cars means some type of animal sighting. We slow down and I announce that its probably more elk. One of the kids says they think it’s a bear. As we get closer we see a mama grizzly and her cub. Awesome! That was the one animal everyone really wanted to see. We got out of the Westy and stood and watched for quite a while. Josh took a lot of pictures. The crowd started to build as the mama and her baby paraded around. They appeared to be digging for something, maybe some kind of bug? Anyway, we all said how perfect it was to see the bears at the end of this perfect day.

Elated, we got back to camp and promptly started a little campfire. The kids had collected some sticks and Josh enjoyed whittling them down to a point. Josh and Zev cooked some hotdogs on their sticks and Randi and I had some pasta. We sat around the fire, enjoying the warmth as the sun was beginning to set. Of course we had to have some s’mores to top off the day. We ate up all the gooey chocolaty goodness before Josh and I went to a ranger talk on the cycle of the elk here at Yellowstone. What a full day. I don’t feel as exhausted as I have on other days, though. I’d have to say this has been one of the best father’s days imaginable.

Day 7: June 14, Yellowstone NP

Zev crawled into bed with us last night. He and Josh weren’t getting along so well before bed so he decided he was going to sleep in one of the front seats. I’m not sure what time that changed but sometime in the middle of the night he crowded into our bed. That made for tight quarters and so Randi and I didn’t sleep so well. We all kind of stayed in bed late this morning. It was warm and cozy and I guess we weren’t in such a rush. When Zev woke up he asked, “How come you moved me?” Guess he didn’t remember trying to squeeze in. I was the first one out of the van in the morning and was immediately greeted by a small boy who said, “That’s a nice tent ya got there.” I’m not sure if he was referring to our poptop or to our side awning-shelter type thing. He asked about a million questions before our two boys finally got up and took the young neighbor’s attention. Turns out he’s the oldest (6 years old) of five kids.

After a slow start we finally got ourselves on the road to see Old Faithful. We got to the geyser basin about 30 minutes before the expected eruption. We sat among the other tourists and waited. It really is an amazing thing. The geyser seems to always be steaming and then, a few minutes before the big eruption, water begins to bubble up. Finally, a fountain of water shoots up, reaching 130 feet or more… really kind of incredible. We spent the majority of the afternoon walking around the basin looking at the variety of thermal pools, geysers, and other formations in the area. I think Josh got a picture of almost each and every one of them. The colors are varied, and the formations caused by the minerals in the water were really interesting. The kids seemed to really enjoy it, but after a couple of hours we were all getting tired and hungry. Making our way back to the Old Faithful Inn, we indulged in some sandwiches and some yummy ice cream. We ate on a large balcony of the Inn, overlooking Old Faithful. The inn is really a beautiful place, crafted out of logs… wood was everywhere. It’s a big place and kind of reminds me of a gingerbread house – only made out of wood.

Returning to the van we decided to take the long, scenic way back toward camp. We drove along rapidly moving rivers and streams and over hills and through forested areas. Buffalo and elk seemed to be everywhere, but we have yet to see a bear. We stopped at a couple of vistas overlooking dramatic waterfalls. Close to our camp, we stopped at a shower/laundry location. Ahhh… to take a shower. It’s only our second one in a week (First if your name is Zev.) It felt soooo good. Even the kids appreciated it. Randi did our laundry while I kept the kids busy. Finally, we made it back to our campsite close to 8 PM. The kids played a little with the young family camped next door while Randi and I enjoyed some hot soup. Soon enough it was off to bed. Hope Zev stays put tonight.

Day 6: June 13, Grand Teton NP to Yellowstone NP

We woke up to a foggy morning. As the fog burned off you could just tell it was going to be an awesome day. We walked out to the lake rim with our coffee and was amazed by the few we’ve had all along, but couldn’t see because of the clouds. The Grand Tetons framed the lake just perfectly. We just stood there watching the sun come up and it was awesome. Today we drove back south to see some of the views we had missed, and to do a little hiking. The Tetons are an amazing range, all jaggedy and snow covered. We decided to do a hike around Jenny Lake to Hidden Falls. The hike is a popular one so we had a lot of company. You can take a boat across the lake to the falls, or you can hike around. We chose to hike around and take the boat back for the full experience. The kids loved the hike as they had to jump across puddles and climb over rocks. After a few miles we climbed a short snow covered hill and saw the rushing waterfall. It was well worth the hike and not at all spoiled by the many others who came to see it. After a bite to eat and a little more exploring we hopped the boat for a quick trip back to the trailhead.

Once back in the Westy we headed back north and toward Yellowstone. The drive is a beautiful one with lots of vistas of mountains, forested areas, and lakes. We were in Yellowstone in no time, but its such a big park that it took quite a while to get to our campground. We had previously made reservations thinking it would be packed, but found that the campgrounds are not all full. The Yellowstone campground we’re staying at isn’t the most beautiful one, but it works and we’re situated. The best thing about it really is that were near a shower. Its been a few days since we’ve had shower access and I know I’m ready for one. Dinner tonight was a bean and rice dish which everyone gobbled up. We decided to play some Yatzee and then get some sleep. Tomorrow… its off to see the geysers!

Day 5: June 12 Afternoon, Jackson into Grand Teton National Park

Today should be the last of the dreary cold, cloudiness. We left Jackson today and headed north through Grand Teton National Park with no real plans in mind. We can’t see the Tetons today because of the clouds. The visibility along ground level is pretty good however. As we entered the park, at Moose Junction, you’ll never guess what we saw… that’s right, a moose. How do they know to hang out in a place called Moose Junction? It was a cow with her baby. We managed to get some pictures, but the pair were quite a distance away. Well we stopped by the visitor’s center where Josh and Zev registered as junior rangers. Part of the program is answering questions and completing activities so that gave them some things to do as we meandered through the park. Anyway, we continued on up the road looking for wildlife as we went. We saw lots of elk and a few antelope. Since we see elk pretty regularly in Flagstaff we didn’t stop like the other tourists every time we saw one. The moose, on the other hand, that was something.

Well we made our way to Jackson Lake, in the north part of the park, and decided to camp there for the night. It was really a beautiful campground and it was less than half full. Our site was just on the rim, above the lake. The kids enjoyed going down to the beach and skipping stones. They met some other kids down by the beach and spent a good amount of time with them that afternoon and evening. That night we were enjoying a great pasta and salad dinner when we noticed a young bull moose walk through. We scurried outside with the camera and got some great shots from probably no more than 20 feet away. Later, after the kids went to the camp of their new found friends, Randi and I watched as some mule deer ate less than 10 feet from us. Later in the evening the kids and I went to a ranger talk on the formation of the Tetons and then it was off to bed for a good night’s sleep.