Day 30: July 7, Barstow, CA to Flagstaff, AZ

So here we are, the final planned day of the trip. We’ve got a big driving day ahead of us and no adventurous sights to see. We get Josh and Zev up early and they do a great job of shuffling down to the free breakfast before heading to the Westy for the last time. Today we travel a section of road that I’ve dreaded for three reasons; 1) it’s about the hottest place on earth, 2) it passes the place where I broke down the first time driving the Westy home back in March, and 3) it’s about the hottest place on earth. The Westy hiccups a couple of times as we pull onto the highway. Great. I just keep going and hope it works out. We’re on the road early and the air isn’t too bad. It’s a pretty unremarkable trip, thankfully. As we approach Needles, CA, where I spent a night as the van was getting worked on several months ago, I said a silent prayer. It was definitely getting hotter. The Westy is driving on smoothly and it looks like we’ll get past Needles. Several more miles and we’re over the Arizona border. The kids yell and shout. I’m excited because we’re now under 200 miles from Flagstaff and my AAA Premium Gold-Plated Platinum Membership allows for towing up to 200 miles. No need today though as the Westy strongly continues on, even handling the increasing hills with confidence. The kids are still doing great. No major fights, no blood. We roll on through Arizona, gaining in elevation as we increase our mileage. The air is getting cooler and we’re greeted with a brief thunder shower outside of Seligman. Soon enough we reach the exit for Flagstaff and we’re just all ecstatic. We made it! 30 days in our little van, lots of adventures, no major problems.
This was a great trip and exceeded all of our expectations. We’ve now spent a full month living in a van with our two active boys and few breaks from one another. Of course, there were moments when one or more of us were a bit cranky, but I have to say that those moments were fleeting compared to the amount of fun we had together. And we got to see lots of cool stuff too. I hope Josh and Zev look back on these last 30 days as one of their most favorite memories… I know I will.

Day 29: July 6, San Simeon to Barstow, CA

The boys got up this morning and immediately began playing with some other kids in the campground. We happen to have camped near this German family who we also camped next to when we were in Bodega Bay. Randi and I got the van packed up so we could get an early start to Hearst Castle. We didn’t make reservations for a tour and we weren’t sure if we’d have to wait. It didn’t take long to get there since Hearst Castle is just up the road from our campground. The site is now run by the State of California but a good portion is still owned by the Hearst family. We arrived and found that it was no problem to get on a tour so got our tickets and headed up the hill five miles to the Hearst compound. The whole place is run very efficiently with buses and lots of staff a whole information center. There are furnishings and art worth millions of dollars so you have to be guided through the home. It was interesting, reminded me of some things I’ve seen in Europe. The kids seemed to like it. I thought they might be bored but they seemed interested. The tour lasts about 90 minutes or so, and then we are returned to the visitor’s center where we grab some lunch and then watch the National Geographic production about Hearst Castle.
By the time we’re done in San Simeon it’s 1:30 in the afternoon. We still have to get a good portion of our drive done so that we can make it home by tomorrow. We take off down the coast and say good-bye to the ocean, for now. We all return in just a few short weeks for a visit with my sister in Manhattan Beach. As we start heading inland we pass through a pretty large grape producing region, and where there’s grapes, there’s wine. OK, just one more stop and then we’ll head home. We pick a winery that looked the most inviting, you know Spanish architecture, big trees, lots of vines. Randi and I sample some of the wines while the kids taste some grape juice. We buy a bottle of Pinot Grigio and head back to the Westy for our long drive to Barstow. Well we get to the town of Paso de Robles and traffic is backed up. Apparently everyone else is also heading back to the east after a holiday weekend on the coast. It’s hot. Real hot. (Remember we don’t have air conditioning.) We wait and inch forward and wait and inch forward and finally the congestion begins to clear. We’re on the move again and heading for Bakersfield. It’s getting later in the afternoon and the air is a bit cooler now. The kids are doing great in the car, even though it’s a long day. We pass the time playing a game we invented just yesterday – it’s called NAME! THAT! CROP! You have to yell that every time you see a new crop along the roadside. Today we’re passing by a lot of vineyards, but also nut orchards like almonds and pistachios. Somewhere in the middle of California we stop at a roadside and pick up some nuts. Then it’s on the road again.
Our brilliant plan is to get to Barstow and find a hotel for the night. There’s no camping in that area and nothing to see. Then we’ll get up early in the morning and drive through the Mojave desert and on home to Flagstaff. Well we get to Barstow and have a little trouble finding the hotels. After a brief flashback of roadside camping we come across a stretch with several options. We pick out the best one (for Barstow) and go into check in. The boys almost immediately find the pool. We’re there late, talking with other travelers, then return to the room. On the television when we get back to the room is the movie Tommy Boy starring our patron saint of travel, Chris Farley. They watch for a while then we set the alarm for 6:45 am so we can get an early start in the morning. The pool and the shower were refreshing. I was reluctant to get a hotel room at first because we’ve not needed one this whole trip, but it was definitely the right decision for today.

Day 28: July 5, a street in CA to San Simeon State Park, CA

Well we woke up from our impromptu campsite and thought, let’s go! Just a block a way we found a little diner kind of place and we stopped for breakfast. It was a good start for a new day, especially after last night. The plates were humungous and we all left absolutely stuffed. We still needed to figure out what we’re doing today and which path we’ll take home. I think we decided that Yosemite is out of the question. Given the fact how busy Yosemite is normally, and that it’s a holiday weekend, we decided to go down the coast a little, then head east to Flagstaff. The next town on the map is Monterey and I thought perhaps we should stop there and check out the aquarium.
The morning is beautiful and we arrive in Monterey at a good time. We quickly find parking and head straight for the aquarium. It’s a wonderful place and the kids really enjoyed it. We were all taken by the sea otters. They’re very cute, lying on their back and all. We saw penguins, and jellies, and octopus, and sharks, and sea stars, and lots of other fish type creatures. It’s a well designed place and I recommend it to everyone. That’s it for Monterey though, we walk briefly along Cannery Row but we need to push on. No rest for the weary.
We start heading down route 1 and just around Carmel come across a sign indicating route 1 is closed 10 miles south of Carmel. Well our plan was to head down the coast, not stopping much, but head to San Simeon and the Hearst Castle. Well I found out that the only way around the closure is to head back up to Monterey and then east to route 101. So that’s what we do. But now what? Should we loop back around to San Simeon or just cut our losses and head toward home? We call the only campground in the San Simeon area and they have 7 spots left. We still have two hours before we get there. After much thinking we decide to go for it. It’s a long, hot drive down the 101 through Salinas and an agricultural valley. We rush as fast as our little Westy can and make it back to the coast. The ocean and it’s cool breeze is much welcome. Our air conditioning just doesn’t do what it’s supposed to so we don’t even bother with it. I drive a few miles up the coast to San Simeon and find the campground. A sign at the entrance says “Campground Full”. Well I just drove through the hot, stinking day to get here and I’ve got no where else to go so we enter anyway. I let the ranger know that I’m sure he’s got at least one spot left and sure enough, he finds us a spot. Hooray! We find our campsite. The campground is still full from July 4th people. It’s loud and crowded, not ideal. But it is right on the beach, and it is a spot for the night. We’re grateful to be there and enjoy the evening. The boys fly their kite. Randi and I immediately have a beer. We relax by a campfire. Tomorrow we hope to get into Hearst Castle since we don’t have reservations, then it’s a long drive to Flagstaff.

Day 27: July 4th, San Francisco, CA then…

Happy July 4th! We woke up today at the Samuel Taylor State Park near Point Reyes, CA. It was a beautiful morning. Josh and Zev ran off almost immediately to play in the creek. They’d come back for something to eat and to check in. Before we knew it, though, the morning got away from us. It was after 11 am before we were able to get on the road today. Our intention was to get a much earlier start. But the kids were having such a great time in the water. They found some other kids and were catching fish and building dams.
Anyway we finally got on the road. After a stop for food and ice we headed south toward San Francisco. The kids were very excited about going over the Golden Gate Bridge. Both have read about it in books or seen it in movies. Finally, there it was. We were driving over the bridge. It’s been very foggy in northern California and today wasn’t much different. But it was fun to see the kids excitement. I decided to park the Westy on the San Francisco side of the bridge. One, we could take a better look at the bridge and the bay, and two, we could regroup and figure out where to go next. This is as far as I planned and I wasn’t sure how to get anywhere or what we’d do today.
After some figuring out, we decided to take public transportation to the Fisherman’s Wharf area. I know there’s lots to see and do in San Francisco, but this really isn’t a San Francisco trip. I just wanted the kids to get a taste of the city. So we figured out the buses and the fares and the transfers and made it to our destination. We just walked around at first, still trying to figure out what we should do. There were a couple of free museums, the San Francisco Maritime Museum and some Municipal Museum. Randi got some clam chowder. We did a lot of walking. You can’t go to San Francisco and not do the cable car so we bought tickets for that, and waited and waited and waited… our turn finally came and we took the cable car through town. It was a great ride, I really enjoyed it and I know the kids did too. We walked to the section of Lombard St. where the road switches back and forth down a steep hill. We went to Ghirardelli Square and ate some chocolate. We saw the Trans America Building and also Alcatraz from a distance. It seemed like we packed a lot in for one day… not even a whole day. The evening was drawing near and the kids wanted to see fireworks. We still had to get back to the van at the Golden Gate Bridge. We grabbed a quick bite for dinner then figured out the buses we’d need to get back to the van. Once back I realized it was way too foggy to see fireworks by the bridge. It was also getting late and we had no place to stay at this point. Earlier, Randi and I discussed that we’d head down route 1 to Santa Cruz and try to find some camping there. So that’s where we went.
It was a relatively quick drive to Santa Cruz, but the sun was going down quick and I wanted to find some fireworks for the kids. As we pull into Santa Cruz we can see glimpses of fireworks along the beach. The city seems packed so we keep heading south toward the know campgrounds. As we do the kids keep their eyes open for more fireworks. Finally we get to the first campground and its completely packed – I mean completely. There were cars and people everywhere. There was, of course, no where to camp there. I stopped a ranger and asked about any chance of us staying and he said all these people made reservations 6 months ago. I thanked him and moved on. There was no chance of us getting a campsite anywhere tonight. We started looking for hotels. We quickly found that the hotels were also completely booked. We tried quite a few places and drove up and down the coast quite a bit. Now it was approaching midnight and still no place to stay. Wait, we have a van we can sleep in. We just need to park it. So, with no other options, we parked on a dark street near the last hotel we tried and closed up our curtains. I didn’t want to pop the top because I thought it would bring too much attention to us and I figured camping on the street was probably not completely legal. So I had to arrange all the junk in the Westy so we could open up the bottom bunk and make enough room for the four of us to sleep. Let’s just say that it wasn’t our most comfortable night’s sleep, but we did get some sleep. We’re still not certain about our plans for the remaining days, and though we had a great day in San Francisco, I hope we have better luck finding places to camp for the night. I’m sure, however, that this will be something the kids talk about when they think about our road trip!

Day 26: July 3, Bodega Bay to Pt. Reyes, CA

Randi and I have mulled over and over what we should do these last few days of the trip. Today, we decide, we should get up and go early and try to find a campground to use as a base. We’re worried that the holiday will have them all booked up. We pack up and leave and find a great little coffee shop in Bodega Bay. We hang out for a brief time in the small shop then get back on route 1 heading south. Again, it’s a pretty drive and soon enough we find ourselves in Pt. Reyes Station. It’s a great little town that boasts that all that it serves is organic and most of it comes from Marin County. We stop for some baked goods, some fruit, and a look around. Onward we catch a sign for Samuel Taylor State Park just a couple miles outside of town. We called this campground yesterday and they said they were booked, but we’re going to give it a shot. Its early in the day. When we arrive we’re told they have some space so pay the ranger and get a nice campsite next to a creek. The kids play in the water a bit and stretch their legs. Our plan, though, was to make sure we have a place to camp and then go see the sights.
Soon we’re back in the Westy and heading further south. First we want to check out Mt. Tamalpais and the site where Randi and I got engaged. The further south we go the more traffic and development we encounter. We manage to find the signs for Mt. Tamalpais and head up the twisty mountain road. Finally at the top Randi and I look around to try and find the spot. We took a picture of it over 15 years ago and have it hanging in our living room so we look at Mt. Tamalpais often. Anyway, we find the area pretty easily and hike out with the kids. It was exciting to be back and it quickly felt very familiar. We were the only ones up there today. After quite a few photos we were ready to head back. Zev, being active and silly, started jumping on the rocks. He (and we) heard something rattling. Zev looked over and saw a rattle snake and immediately became excited. Now a normal person would run in the opposite direction, but Zev loves snakes so he jumps down and tries to find the snake in the trees and rocks. Soon, though, we all leave and head back to the van and down off Mt. Tamalpais.
Following our adventure, we decide to check out nearby Stinson Beach. The kids could use a few hours of playing in the sand and surf. It’s a little cool but the sun is warm. There are lots of other families on this beach today. Our kids play in the water, throw a ball around, then fly the kite they bought earlier in the trip. Randi and I pretty much just lay on the beach. A few hours later and we head back to the campground. On the way we decide to have dinner out tonight so we stop again in Point Reyes Station. We have some great wood fired pizza then top it off with some ice cream. Full and satisfied, we head back to the campsite where the kids play by the creek and run around a bit before bed. We’ll play in San Francisco tomorrow and then its time to start heading for Flagstaff.

Day 25: July 2, Humboldt Redwoods to Bodega Bay, CA

Today’s going to be a big travel day. We’ve got to make it down to Bodega Bay, north of San Francisco. We start off the day right by getting some showers. Zev made the coffee this morning and did a great job. Josh was helpful in getting the Westy packed up. In a nearby town Randi has learned that there is a drive through tree. Being that we haven’t passed up any other experience this trip, we decide to pay for this one too. I’m not sure I’d recommend this to anyone, but we had fun with it, and the van barely made it through! Back on the 101 we continue our trek south. Soon we arrive where route 1 splits off from the 101. Route 101 would be faster for sure, but the 1 meanders along the coastline. After a quick decision, we turn off and take route 1. The first part is a torturous, windy road up a mountain range and then back down the other side. The Westy is a great vehicle but it wasn’t made for hills, and it wasn’t made for tight turns. Put the two together and, well, let’s just say it was a slow, rolling time. After the 22 miles of this we were rewarded with a great view of the Pacific Coast. Route 1, and us (by default), continue along the coastline. It really is a fun road, but it takes a long time. We had great views of the rocky coastline and we travelled through some great little towns.
One place we stopped for a while was in Mendocino. I found a coffee shop where I could sit and update this blog. The kids found a nice little toy store. Randi checked out a few of the shops in town. All the towns along the coast obviously hug the ocean. Mendocino is a quaint, Victorian type of town. Over an hour passed by and we still had a good distance to go on the ol’ route 1 so off we went. The views continued, fog rolling in occasionally. At one point the road climbs high along some bluffs and then down the other side. It can be a little scary to approach a hairpin turn without a guard rail, several hundred feet above the ocean.
It was a fun drive, it was a long drive, but honestly it seemed to go quickly. Nevertheless we were happy to see the signs for Bodega Bay State Park. As we entered the campground the ranger told us that there were spaces for tonight but that the rest of the weekend was sold out because of the holiday. Now Randi and I knew we would be traveling during July 4th but we didn’t make reservations at any of the campgrounds we’ve stayed at, that goes for July 4th weekend as well. We’re starting to get worried about the next few nights but we’ll deal with it later. Bodega Bay is a pleasant place. We could hear the ocean pounding but we couldn’t see it. The fog was thick this evening. It was also pretty chilly. The boys and I went on a little walk to find the beach and couldn’t seem to find it. We turned around when we lost the trail and the fog thickened. Back at camp we made some pasta, and later played some hacky sac. (we bought another hacky sac in Mendocino. I say another because its our third one of the trip. Each has developed a small hole and the sand inside starts leaking out.) One more campfire and of course the obligatory roasted marshmallows and then its off to sleep.

Day 24: July 1, Gold Bluffs Beach to Humboldt Redwoods State Park

This morning was very misty and a little cool. Originally we talked about doing a hike in the area but instead decided that we should move on down the road and try to get a permit for access to the Tall Trees Grove. We skipped a hard core breakfast in favor of getting an early start. Once the Westy was packed up we headed back up the twisty, steep, dark forest road and back to a visitor’s center. It was no problem getting a permit so we went to the Bald Hills Road to the Tall Trees Access. All in all it was about 15 miles of big hills, blind curves, and beautiful tall redwoods. The last half of the route to the trailhead was on a gravel road. Our little van did great, but the breaks were smelling pretty hot when we parked. We hopped out at the trail head and headed down toward the Tall Trees Grove. I’ve read that some of the world’s tallest trees are located in this grove and that’s what we’re here for. It’s a nice little hike, just about 4 miles in all, but it wanders along Redwood Creek and around some very tall trees. We had a great time and learned a lot from the little trail guide we picked up. The hike back to the van was a bit more difficult as it was all uphill. But we all survived.
Back in the Westy we returned the way we came and then back onto 101 South. The route today would take us along the coast and through deeply forested hillsides. We made one major stop, in Arcata, CA. It looked nice enough as we pulled in. We found a pleasant town square where Zev did handsprings and blackflips. The boys played some Frisbee. We couldn’t find a decent coffee shop though. We walked around a bit, but I guess I had high expectations for Arcata and that the town didn’t meet. There were some cool shops but the town wasn’t buzzing like I’d expected. Anyway, we spent a little over an hour in Arcata but had to get going to a campsite further south. The drive and hike to the Tall Trees Grove took several hours so it was getting pretty late. The family we met in Olympic National Park live nearby, but they weren’t yet home from their travels so we didn’t hook up with them. It was onward to a campsite. We finally arrived at Humboldt Redwoods State Park where we would stay for the night. It’s a great campground with private sites and clean comfortable showers. Even Zev took a shower here. We made a fire, had a great dinner, and had a comfortable sleep. We’re starting to think about how to get home in time at this point. Randi and I spent a little time looking at a map but there’s no real satisfying way to get home. Its just going to have to be a long, hot stretch of driving between the eastern side of California and Flagstaff. For now, we’re getting closer to San Francisco!